Rear Brake(s)

pre-manufactured bubble flair brake line

There are many types of brakes – drum and disc brakes … Save time – look at the brake line its self –

The brake line has flair –

Purchasing a per-manufactured brake appuratis is a scary project. – period. Because there are so many risks in not having the right ones installed. If someone else was working on your brakes – well.

There is no way around doing this because the fittings are not the same! No, desperation wont save you. If you dont have – brake line, an extra $70 or all of the above. well – we don’t know. Nobody does. Very very seriously.

The tools you’ll absolutely have to buy:

Brake line cutter- $10.00
Flair kit – $15.00
Brake line and fittings – $40

Rear cylinders (2)

The rear cylinders are the first thing to check. – Because the drum is excruciating – while it excoriates it’s way into being removed from the rear axel(s).

You can only remove it with a large hammer! –

Yes that – $19.99

Purchasing the right cylinder for the job is usually found closest to the place where you will be working on your car.

Dorman rear cylinder $8.99

Remove the old cylinders this way:

1. Strange looking spring
drum brake spring tool

Remove the spring with the tool ($10) yes. you need to buy the tool. – any other way is exasperating. The tool also reveals two pins – that are in two holes. (they cant fall out of the holes or leave them. much.)

Then – using a grabber – preferably vice grips – remove the spring from the bottom hole so that the shoes – Rest on the Axel and are not being pulled together.

If the adjustment part falls out. Pick it up, and make sure you can find it again. Remove the old brake shoes and put the new ones on.

Before replacing the bottom spring again – make sure the adjustment part has enough sway to calibrate the distance to the old drum – be very careful of your nose – seriously.

The parts to the new brake cylinders may also fall out: (not included)

2. sturdy fittings

So, the way these operate is…. pull the caliper… engage the parking brake.

Then using pneumatic – pressure. – (The dangerous part) Use the springs – the way they are set such that the new shoes are set against the DRUM. Then go back the way they went into it.

After that is finished you may also notice that this changes the way the master cylinder operates – So before doing that- Replacee any brake line that you can see under the car that is rusted, worn or bent! – remember … the fittings are NOT THE SAME!

And that’s it. – new shoes. master cylinder? – no

Master Cylinder –

Buying a new master cylinder is the first part – here they are listed for under $30. – The most critical part to finding the right master cylinder is the brake lines themselves. – AND THE FITTINGS

If you are not sure about the old lines – to the master cylinder. Replace them immediately. – yes. immediately.


The flair on this line is bad – because it does not hold firmly into the socket. This controls the entire operation of the vehicle


No, its not pleasant if you don’t put any thing into how… the brakes operate the car. Yes that was her walking past – lol

OR – Wiggle the line against the master cylinder.  There should be no wiggle – remain stiff. +++

Inside of the brake booster is a very very serious problem.

Adjust the push rod

Adjust the push rod slightly, because the the push rod is flexible – meaning that it will go out from the pneumatic plate of the master cylinder entirely.

Have full range of access to the parking brake

So, what happens is that while the pneumatic line is pressurized – the push rod causes the brakes not to operate ! – because it had not been adjusted beside the master cylinder. yet. – Applying pressure to the brake pedal and no response from the brakes puts you upside down… so there is no right side up. either. –

And thats it. Make sure that there is no air in the lines -*snap* that would be stealing wouldn’t it?

So, to check for rattle snakes:

Put a suction cup on the center of your chest – or use your hand.

Ca-ugh as loud as you can between the difference – there is a difference – of that much – while pulling the suction cup up. Firm.

But we need is a weight. very heavy weight on the brake -hmmm.


I don’t see one there.

Do the master cylinder first – the right side and the left. This is kind of expensive – so find a good day to do this – not a lousy one. And that’s it! – perfect brakes.

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